How to Play Monitor Speakers with External Speakers
For years, I wrestled with this exact setup: my studio monitors, which I actually trusted, sitting there silent while I fumbled with some cheap, tinny auxiliary speakers that sounded like they were broadcasting from inside a tin can. It was a mess of cables and frustration. Honestly, the amount of misinformation online about how to play monitor speakers with external speakers is infuriating; half of it assumes you’re a sound engineer with a rack of gear that costs more than my car.
So, you’ve got your nice monitor speakers, the ones that actually tell you the truth about your audio, but you want to blast it out or run a secondary system. Maybe you’re trying to hear something in another room, or you just want more bass than your current setup can provide without selling a kidney.
This isn’t rocket science, but it’s also not the ‘plug-and-play’ nonsense you’ll find on some blogs. Let’s cut through the marketing fluff and get to what actually works, and more importantly, what doesn’t. I’ve spent my fair share of cash on cables that promised the moon and delivered static, so you don’t have to.
Connecting Your Dots (literally)
The fundamental idea behind how to play monitor speakers with external speakers is pretty straightforward: you need a way to send your audio signal to both sets of speakers simultaneously. Most audio interfaces, the heart of a modern home studio or serious listening setup, have multiple outputs. Think of these outputs like garden hoses – you can connect one to a faucet, or you can use a splitter to send water to two different sprinklers.
My first mistake? Assuming one output could magically do the job of two. I bought an audio interface with only one stereo output, thinking I could just daisy-chain my monitor speakers and then plug my little bookshelf speakers into the headphone jack. What a disaster. The headphone jack is usually not designed to drive full-range speakers, and the impedance mismatch meant my monitors sounded weak, and the external speakers buzzed like angry bees. I spent around $150 on that interface, not to mention the cost of the speakers I immediately realized were useless for this task. It took me three more tries with different interfaces before I found one that made sense for my needs, with dedicated outputs for different zones or purposes.
When One Isn’t Enough: Output Options
Most decent audio interfaces will have at least two main outputs (often labeled 1/2 or L/R). These are your primary connections for your studio monitors. To get sound to your external speakers, you’ll typically need to access these same main outputs and split the signal. This is where the magic, or the frustration, happens.
If your interface has a dedicated ‘Monitor A’ and ‘Monitor B’ output, or ‘Main Out’ and ‘Line Out’, you’re in luck. You can often assign your main stereo signal to ‘Monitor A’ (for your studio monitors) and then route that same signal, or a separate mix, to ‘Monitor B’ or ‘Line Out’ for your external speakers. This requires a bit of digging into your interface’s control panel software, which can sometimes feel like deciphering ancient hieroglyphs. I’ve found that the software for interfaces around the $200-$300 mark usually offers this kind of flexibility, whereas the super-cheap ones often leave you stranded with just one usable stereo pair. (See Also: How To Monitor Singing Without Latency )
If your interface only has one stereo output pair, you’ll need a hardware solution to split the signal. The most common and straightforward way to do this is using a stereo DI box or a dedicated passive speaker splitter. A DI box, typically used for instruments like guitars, can take a balanced mono signal and split it into two, but for stereo, you’d need two of them or a stereo DI. Honestly, a simpler, cheaper option for most people is a passive speaker splitter designed for this exact purpose. These are essentially just passive boxes with one stereo input and two stereo outputs, usually with basic level controls. They don’t add any power or coloring to the sound, they just split the signal. It’s like running a garden hose through a Y-splitter – simple and effective, provided the pressure is right.
The Cable Conundrum: What to Buy and What to Avoid
Here’s where I’ve made some truly spectacular blunders. You need the right cables, and the market is flooded with garbage. For studio monitors, you’re usually dealing with balanced connections, typically TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve) or XLR. Your external speakers might use TRS, RCA, or even bare wire terminals if they’re older passive bookshelf speakers.
The biggest temptation is to buy a bundle of cheap, unbranded cables off Amazon. Don’t. Just don’t. I once bought a pack of six “pro audio” cables that looked decent but introduced a high-pitched whine that sounded like a mosquito trapped in a tin can whenever I cranked the volume past noon. It turned out the shielding on those cables was practically non-existent, picking up every bit of electromagnetic interference from my computer and nearby power bricks. I ended up spending an extra $80 on decent, shielded cables from a reputable brand like Mogami or Canare to replace the entire lot after about two weeks of listening to that infernal buzzing. Seven out of ten people I know who’ve tried those cheap cables have had similar issues, only they don’t always realize the cable is the culprit.
| Connection Type | Typical Use Case | Pros | Cons | My Verdict |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Balanced TRS/XLR | Studio Monitors, Professional Gear | Excellent noise rejection, strong signal | Can be more expensive, requires matching ports | Always use for monitors if possible. Don’t skimp here. |
| Unbalanced RCA | Consumer Audio, Some Amplifiers | Widely compatible, inexpensive | Susceptible to noise, signal degrades over long runs | Fine for consumer speakers, but keep runs short. Avoid for monitors. |
| Speaker Wire (Bare or Banana Plug) | Passive Bookshelf/Tower Speakers | Direct connection for passive speakers | Requires an amplifier/receiver to power passive speakers | Only if you’re using passive external speakers driven by a separate amp. |
Routing the Sound: Software vs. Hardware
This is where things get a little more technical, and the answer to how to play monitor speakers with external speakers depends heavily on your audio interface and its driver software.
Software Routing (Ideal Scenario): If your audio interface’s control panel allows you to create multiple output busses or assign signals to different outputs independently, this is your best bet. You can typically set your main stereo outputs (e.g., Out 1-2) to feed your studio monitors. Then, you can often create a separate stereo bus (e.g., Out 3-4) and route the exact same master output signal to it. This is clean, controllable from your computer, and doesn’t require extra hardware beyond what you already have. For instance, my old Focusrite Scarlett 18i20 had incredibly flexible routing options, letting me send my DAW output to outputs 1-2 for my mains, and simultaneously to outputs 3-4 for a headphone amp or, in your case, another set of speakers via a line output.
The visual representation of this routing in the software often looks like a digital mixer board. You’ll see little virtual cables you can click and drag to connect the ‘Master Stereo Out’ to ‘Output 3/4’. It feels like playing a video game, but the results are audible. The key here is to understand what ‘direct monitoring’ means – you want to make sure you’re sending the actual playback signal, not just a direct signal from your inputs. The goal is to hear your mix through both systems. (See Also: How To Get Audio Out Of The Monitor )
Hardware Splitting: If your interface is more basic, with only one stereo output pair, you’ll be looking at hardware splitters. As mentioned, a passive stereo splitter is the most common solution. You’ll run your single stereo output from the interface into the splitter’s input, and then run two separate stereo pairs from the splitter’s outputs – one to your studio monitors and one to your external speakers. This is like the Y-adapter for garden hoses I mentioned earlier. It’s a simple, passive device, meaning it doesn’t require power and doesn’t boost or alter the signal significantly. The main thing to watch out for with passive splitters is that they can sometimes slightly reduce the overall signal level because the load is now shared. It’s not usually a dramatic drop, but you might need to turn up the volume on your speakers a bit more than usual. Think of it like having two people drink from the same straw – the flow per person is less than if only one was drinking.
I remember setting up a friend’s basic home DJ rig with just one output. We grabbed a cheap splitter from a local electronics store, and it worked… kind of. The volume was noticeably lower on the external speakers, and there was a faint hiss. It turned out the internal wiring of that splitter was subpar. It’s a perfect example of how even simple hardware can have a significant impact if it’s not made with decent components. We ended up buying a slightly more expensive one, about $40, from a brand known for audio accessories, and the difference was night and day. No hiss, and the volume drop was negligible.
When to Just Get New Speakers
Honestly, sometimes the answer to how to play monitor speakers with external speakers is that you shouldn’t. If your external speakers are truly awful – the kind that make a well-mixed track sound like mud – then no amount of clever routing or fancy cables will save you. They’ll just highlight how bad they are. I’ve been there. I bought a pair of cheap “computer speakers” that promised 50 watts of power, but sounded thinner than a politician’s apology. They made my carefully crafted bass lines disappear into a vague rumble.
A lot of people make the mistake of thinking any old speakers will do for a secondary listening system. That’s like using a butter knife to chop vegetables; it might technically cut, but it’s inefficient and makes the job harder than it needs to be. If you’re serious about hearing your audio accurately in different environments or through different sound signatures, investing in a second, decent pair of speakers – even if they’re just powered bookshelf speakers – is often a better long-term solution than trying to Frankenstein a system with junk. Consumer Reports has often highlighted that even mid-range bookshelf speakers offer vastly superior sound quality for general listening compared to the cheapest computer speaker options, and they’re often easier to integrate into a setup.
Dealing with Volume Control
One of the trickier aspects of running multiple speaker sets is managing their volume independently. If you’re using software routing with separate output assignments (like 1-2 for monitors, 3-4 for externals), your DAW’s master volume control will affect both simultaneously. This is usually what you want for comparing mixes.
However, if you want independent volume control – say, to blast music at a party from your external speakers while keeping your monitors at a low whisper for reference – you’ll need more than just basic splitting. For this, you might need a small mixer or a dedicated speaker management system. A simple passive mixer can take your main stereo output and send it to multiple destinations, each with its own volume knob. Alternatively, if your external speakers have their own volume control, you can set their loudness manually and then use your interface’s master volume to control the monitors. This requires a bit of careful calibration to ensure your reference levels are consistent when you switch between them. (See Also: How To Get Display From Laptop To Monitor )
Can I Connect My Monitor Speakers to a TV?
Yes, you can, but it often requires an intermediary device. Most TVs have RCA or optical audio outputs, not the balanced TRS or XLR inputs your studio monitors typically use. You’ll likely need an audio interface or a DAC (Digital-to-Analog Converter) to convert the TV’s digital or analog output into a signal your monitors can accept. Ensure your chosen interface has the correct inputs and outputs for your specific monitor speakers.
Will Connecting External Speakers Damage My Monitor Speakers?
Generally, no, if you do it correctly. Damage typically occurs from overpowering speakers, electrical faults, or impedance mismatches. If you’re simply splitting a signal using a passive splitter or routing it through multiple outputs on an audio interface, the signal level is usually well within safe limits for both sets of speakers. The primary concern is more about sound quality degradation or insufficient volume from the external speakers due to signal splitting, rather than outright damage.
How Do I Get Stereo Sound From My Monitor Speakers and External Speakers?
To get stereo sound from both sets, you need to ensure your audio source (your computer, mixer, etc.) is outputting a stereo signal, and that this stereo signal is being split or routed to both your monitor speakers and your external speakers. Most audio interfaces, when using their main stereo outputs (often labeled 1-2), will naturally output a stereo signal. If you’re using a hardware splitter, it will duplicate that stereo signal. If you’re using software routing, you’ll explicitly assign the stereo master output to multiple physical outputs. The key is that the original source signal is stereo, and it’s faithfully duplicated to both destinations.
What If My External Speakers Are Powered and My Monitors Are Passive?
This is less common, as studio monitors are almost always active (powered), while many consumer or home stereo speakers are passive and require a separate amplifier. If, for some reason, you had passive monitors and active external speakers, you would still connect the line-level output from your audio source (or the output of a splitter) to the inputs on your powered external speakers. Your passive monitors would then need to be connected to an amplifier, which in turn would receive its input signal from the same source or splitter. It’s crucial to manage the signal flow so that the amplifier for the passive monitors isn’t overloaded by the signal intended for the powered speakers, and vice-versa.
Verdict
So, the core of how to play monitor speakers with external speakers boils down to how your audio interface handles outputs and how you choose to split or route that signal. For many, if your interface has multiple output pairs, the software routing is the cleanest and most flexible approach. It lets you control everything from your computer without adding more physical clutter or potential points of failure with extra cables and boxes.
If you’re stuck with a basic interface, a decent passive stereo splitter is a solid, relatively inexpensive workaround. Just don’t skimp on the cables; they’re the unsung heroes, or villains, of any audio setup. I learned that the hard way, spending more in the long run to fix a cheap cable disaster.
Ultimately, the goal is to hear your audio accurately across different systems. If your external speakers are just making things sound worse, it might be time to accept that they’re not the right tool for the job and look for something better suited, rather than fighting with a setup that actively works against you. Your ears will thank you.
Recommended For You
